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glycolic acid in skincare

Glycolic Acid in Skincare

What is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) typically derived from sugarcane. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting the natural exfoliation process and accelerating skin cell turnover. As the smallest AHA molecule, glycolic acid penetrates the skin deeply and efficiently, making it one of the most effective AHAs for improving the visual signs of photo-aging, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and congestion.

Glycolic acid is unique among exfoliating acids because it not only smooths the skin but has also been shown, at higher concentrations, to promote collagen synthesis and increase epidermal hyaluronic acid levels.

Benefits of Glycolic Acid for Skin

  • Exfoliates dead skin cells: Encourages natural cell turnover for a smoother, brighter complexion.

  • Brightens skin tone: Helps fade hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone.

  • Reduces signs of aging: Improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by promoting collagen production.

  • Improves texture: Minimizes the look of roughness and congestion for softer skin.

  • Boosts hydration: Enhances epidermal and dermal hyaluronic acid levels for plumper, healthier-looking skin.

What Type of Skincare Products Is Glycolic Acid Typically Used In?

Glycolic acid is most often found in:


    • Toners: Lightweight formulas for daily or mild exfoliation.

    • Serums: Higher concentrations to target specific concerns like hyperpigmentation and aging.

    • Creams and moisturizers: Buffers glycolic acid’s potency for sensitive skin while offering hydration.

    • Cleansers and masks: Rinse-off products that provide short contact time, ideal for beginners or sensitive skin types.

Milky formulations like Prequel’s Multi Acid Milk Peel AHA Exfoliating Solution, creams, or moisturizers with glycolic acid can help offset potential irritation compared to clear solutions.

Concentration Levels for Glycolic Acid:

  • Low concentration (1-5%): Suitable for daily use, particularly for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

  • Moderate concentration (5-10%): Effective for improving skin tone, texture, and mild hyperpigmentation.

  • High concentration (10-15%): Targets advanced concerns like photo-aging, fine lines, and deeper hyperpigmentation.

For clinical treatments, even higher percentages (20-30%) may be used under professional supervision to achieve faster results. Always ensure the pH of the formula remains optimized (around 3.83) for efficacy without excessive irritation.

Is It Okay to Use Glycolic Acid Daily?

Yes, but with caution. Daily use of glycolic acid is generally safe at low concentrations (around 1-5%) and for those with resilient skin. For beginners or those with sensitive skin, start with 1-2 times per week and gradually build up frequency as your skin adjusts. Rinse-off products like cleansers can be a great entry point for daily exfoliation.


Always apply sunscreen during the day: Glycolic acid can increase photosensitivity (and undo its benefits) if skin is exposed to UV rays.

Who Should Use Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is suitable for:


  • Individuals with dull or photoaged skin seeking to brighten and smooth their complexion.

  • Those experiencing hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and uneven texture.

  • Dry skin types, as glycolic acid does not reduce sebum levels.

  • People looking for a deeper exfoliation alternative to other AHAs like lactic acid.

For those with sensitive skin, starting with a low concentration or using a rinse-off formula is ideal to minimize irritation.

What Skincare Ingredients Pair Well with Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid pairs well with:

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid pulls moisture to the skin’s surface while glycolic acid exfoliates reducing the possibility of dryness.

Niacinamide

Soothes skin and strengthens the barrier while balancing glycolic acid’s exfoliating effects. Niacinamide also regulates oil production, which—combined with glycolic acid’s exfoliating qualities—helps to prevent acne.

Urea

Offers humectant benefits to soften skin, complementing glycolic acid’s more powerful exfoliating properties.

Ceramides

Helps rebuild the skin barrier, particularly after exfoliation. They help to keep the skin hydrated while glycolic acid promotes cell-turnover.


When combining active ingredients in a single routine, it’s best to apply glycolic acid first and let it absorb fully before layering other products.

Are There Any Ingredients That Should Not Be Used with Glycolic Acid?

Avoid using glycolic acid simultaneously with:

Vitamin C

Combining strong acids and antioxidants can destabilize formulations and lead to irritation. Use Vitamin C in the morning and glycolic acid at night for optimal results.

Retinoids

Layering retinoids with glycolic acid can cause excessive dryness, peeling, and irritation. Alternate their usage on different days or consult a dermatologist.

Salicylic Acid

Combining multiple exfoliants may lead to over-exfoliation and a compromised skin barrier.





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